• BT | Zenith

    By on September 10, 2014

    JJF_140707_0173-1

    © Jared Flood | Brooklyn Tweed

    Yesterday was launch day at Brooklyn Tweed. Launch day is always very exciting but let’s face it – it is all the more exciting because we’re talking about the fall collection and fall is to knitters what christmas is to children. Whenever we work on a Brooklyn Tweed collection, we are given themes and mood boards ahead of time of our design team meeting. For fall, our mandate was to create a collection inspired by fishermen’s sweaters.

    Jared, who is easily the best boss I’ve ever had, isn’t particularly strict with us (the team consists of Jared, Michele, Julie and I). While we may be given a certain departure point as a guide, we are free to interpret our theme as we fit and to remain true to our own aesthetics.

    cabled-yoke

     

    With that in mind, I began to work on my concepts. As usual, I began by sketching overall shapes – I occasionally begin with a stitch pattern, but rarely. I am a seamstress at heart and usually shop for fabric after choosing the kind of garment I’ll make next.

    JJF_140707_0163

    © Jared Flood | Brooklyn Tweed

    It had been a while since I had designed a circular yoke. They’re a favourite of mine as they allow for quite an oversized fit while remaining tidy around the shoulders. The sample shown above has 10 1/2″ of positive ease on the model but if less ease is desired, choose to knit a smaller size in relation to your own bust measurement. Zenith‘s finished circumference at bust  is 36½ (40, 43½, 47, 50¾, 54¼)”, but it should be noted that the yoke chart is longer for the larger sizes in order to keep the ratio correct.

    In closing, I’d like to add a big shout out to Wannietta for knitting the sample. Honestly, she has knit so many of my samples over the years – the first was Shimmer Aran, way back in 2003 – that she deserves her own blog post. I promise it won’t take two years

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  • Terry Fox Run 2012

    By on September 17, 2012

    Quick post: my daughter Oona is participating in the Terry Fox Run this year. In order to help her raise her objective, I’m running a contest – anyone who donates anything over $5 will be entered in a draw for a sweater’s  worth of St-Denis Sommet (15 balls!) in the colour of the winner’s choice. Second prize will consist of a kit to knit this little Terry teddy bear as well as the magazine containing the pattern. Here is Oona’s page:

    http://my.e2rm.com/personalPage.aspx?EventID=88432&LangPref=en-CA&RegistrationID=1620312

    Thank you and good luck!

    ETA: don’t forget to send me an email or to leave a comment if you donate – I know how to reach a couple of the donors so far, but not all. And I certainly don’t know how to reach ‘anonynous’!

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  • Back to School

    By on September 5, 2012

    Several snippets of news today – and well there should be, after so many months of silence…

    Some time ago, I began to reconsider having a yarn line; for a variety of reasons, it was decided that it was time to let it go. So, as of today, the process of liquidating the yarn in stock has begun. Everything but the magazines, patterns and Briggs & Little yarn is 30% off the original price – the magazines are 50% off. Please note that all orders will ship from Canada, that supplies are limited and that sale prices cannot be applied retroactively. So, stock up!

    In other news, I should add that the title of this post is not an analogy and that I am indeed back in school full time. Earlier this year, I enrolled in beauty school with the goal of becoming a hairdresser. Everything is working out great on that front, and I have been immersed in the world of hair for a little over 3 months. It’s about to get even more exciting later this month as we begin to learn the craft of hair colour…

    With these announcements, some of you may wonder what lies next for me within the knitting world – I’ve wondered about this myself. However, a friend (pictured above – recognize him?) asked if I would be interested in joining his in house knitwear design team. Our first collection is finally unveiled this morning, which means I no longer have to keep it a secret. You can see the look book here

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  • Saga of the 262

    By on April 20, 2012

    [qt:http://stdenisyarns.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Pfaff-262-sml-2.m4v 535 400]

    After  I took the vintage machine for their little airing, my friend remarked positively on the Pfaff. That little compliment along with having sewn curtains for Monique a few weeks ago did it – it was high time to get old 262 going again.

    (in case you’re wondering: sewing curtains on the other machines is fine, but it feels like I’m pushing it too hard when I sew at maximum speed for a certain length of time. The Pfaff 238 must have spoiled me, as it was such a beast. The 262 isn’t as strong, but still has a 1.12 amp motor which will fare better with curtains and denim than the Janome’s 0.7 amp motor.)

    Anyhow, try as I might, the 262 does not want to be reasoned with – it only wants to do a zigzag. Since opening her up, I’ve joined a couple of groups of vintage sewing machine enthusiasts and created the video above so that they could weigh in as to what the problem might be (bigger video can be found here).

    I apologize to those of you who have no interest in sewing and/or vintage machines – I’ll be back on track soon. In any case, all my knitting is secret at the moment so I wouldn’t have anything to tell you about even if I wasn’t so enthralled with gears.

     

     

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  • The Sewing Machine Family

    By on March 28, 2012

    A good friend interested in sewing sweetly asked for a post on my sewing machines – probably out of surprise that I own so many. Truthfully, I used to own more – my first three sewing machines are no longer around. The first – A singer purchased from Consumers Distributing (Canadians will get a chuckle out of that one) died after sewing a few too many buttonholes for a Gilbert and Sullivan production of ‘The Gondoliers’. The second, another Singer but a much older model purchased from the Salvation Army for $20 proved superfluous when I graduated to an industrial sewing machine capable of working a zig zag stitch. It was a great machine, but huge – it made no sense to hang on to it when I stopped sewing for hire.

    This is what’s left – let me begin with the oldest…

    The Singer 221 (also known as a Singer Featherweight) looks older than it really is. It was given to me by my father in law and used to belong to his mother. Judging from the serial number, she must have purchased it either in the late 50s or the early 60s from ‘Chalifour’ on St-Hubert in Montreal:

    It can only do a straight stitch on its own (a zigzagger attachment was available for it), but it is famous for the beauty of its stitch and is prized among quilters. I have fabric on hand to make Marcel a couple of shirts – with this machine and my copy of ‘Shirtmaking’ by David Page Coffin, I’ll be all set. Marcel will love wearing shirts made on his grandmother’s machine.

     

    My grandmother’s sewing machine, a Pfaff 262, is only a little older – I believe she purchased it in the mid 60s. She was a dressmaker and used hers quite a bit more than Nanny did hers, as you can see! Many machines of this era utilized removable stitch cams in order to work decorative stitches – the attachment I mentioned earlier for the featherweight used these to work stitches beyond the zigzag stitch. The Pfaff was different in that its cams were built in – one refers to a ‘stitch wheel’ in order to access these stitches.

    It’s classified as a ‘light industrial’ and weighs a ton. Unfortunately, it needs to be serviced – I think the timing is off. When I get a minute, I’ll attempt to clean and adjust it.

     

    The serger was another gift and dates back to 1996. It’s a basic machine but can accomplish all I need it to do: it has differential feed, an adjustable cutting width, either 3 or 4 overlock stitch and can work a rolled hem. Parts are still available and it’s easy to work with , so what’s not to love?

     

    A couple years later in 1998, after much saving, I acquired my first ‘fancy’ machine – a Janome 4800. I love this machine – buttonholes used to take forever before I had it. I worked them manually using a zigzag stitch and a lot of marking was necessary. Fine when sewing something precious, but irritating when sewing pajama tops. No longer – the Janome works identical buttonholes one after the other.

    As you’d expect from such a machine, it boasts a fair number of built in stitches, but not too many crazy ones. I mostly like the fact that its straight stitch and buttonholes are very nice. The keyhole buttonhole and eyelet are nice extras, and it’s fun to monogram the yoke of a shirt with the alphabet. The stitches can be combined as well as lengthened without affecting the stitch density. The adjustable speed is useful to new sewers – Oona likes that she can slow it down so that it doesn’t take off on her. I love the needle up/down feature.

     

    The newest member of the family is the coverstitch machine – this is the type of machine used to hem tee shirts. It sews a double or triple line of top stitching on one side and an overlock on the reverse side. A similar look can be achieved with a twin needle on a sewing machine but tunneling is often a problem (tunneling refers to a raised effect between the two rows of stitching) and the reverse side isn’t very attractive (IMO). Before purchasing it, I also considered two Janome models – one was similarly priced but could only sew a double line of top stitching which meant being limited to a 6mm wide cover stitch while the brother can sew either a 3mm wide or 6mm wide coverstitch. The more expensive model from Janome had this option as well as a free arm, but I couldn’t justify the extra expense.

    Some sergers can work a coverstitch as well. From what I’ve heard, the serger to coverstitch conversion takes a while. Since I’m sentimental about my serger and I have the room for an extra machine, it disn’t make sense to replace it. But the option is available.

     

    I’ll now ask you for help: my friend already has a sewing machine but is thinking about a serger as he would like to work with jerseys. Do you have any recommendations? Do you own a combination serger/coverstitch? And do you know of other books besides Mr Coffin’s you’d recommend to a guy? Somehow, I don’t imagine he’ll want to hear all about using a serger to produce lettuce edges

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